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| Live To Surf
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| It’s called Biggest Wednesday — January 28, 1998. That’s the day they closed the beaches in Hawaii.
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The world’s finest big wave surfers were assembled at the shoreline on North Beach waiting to compete in the K2 Big Wave Challenge. But El Nino and the Pacific whipped up tsunami-style waves so daunting that officials declared an unprecedented condition black and made it illegal to go into the water.
“While the best big wave surfers stayed on shore, my brother and I went farther out and rode outside
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Sunset Beach in waves estimated to be 110 feet. To date no other surfers have ever surfed waves this size,” says Michael Willis.
Twin brothers, Milton and Michael Willis, who are expert surfboard shapers and instructors, started surfing along California beaches when they were only 13 years old. Today they are among an elite group of athletes engaged in big wave or extreme surfing, frequently described as the most dangerous sport of all.
In the last decade, four big wave surfers have been killed pursuing their unique passion, which plays out in only a handful of exotic international locations such as the outer reefs in Hawaii and Teakupoo, off of the Tahiti Coast.
“When surfing big waves you should be prepared for the worst but concentrate on the best. When most surfers fear paddling out, true big wave surfers hear a call that has to be answered. They’re too excited to feel fear when the surf is up,” says Willis.
A total body sport that burns up to 500 calories per hour, big wave surfing is conducted amid utter chaos — churning ocean, changing currents, hot and cold temperatures, shifting surfaces — and participants court disaster every time out.
Traditional big wave surfing involves paddling out past the waves, but with the help of a Jet Ski and a fearless driver, “tow-in” surfers enter “the unridden realm,” riding waves so high they obliterate the sun and sky.
“No surfer can conquer the waves — it’s about being one with the waves” says Willis. He and his brother have co-authored several books, including Surfing for the Soul (available at Amazon.com). They operate surfing schools in both Hawaii and California.
Big wave surfing is a way of life, according to Willis, who describes it as an all-or-nothing proposition.
“Balance is key. Big wave surfing is as challenging mentally as it is physically. It’s thrilling and mind-expanding. Surfing a giant wave has the same benefit as a lifetime of meditation. If you can surf big waves, you can do anything, anywhere, anytime.”
Riding the Next Wave:
Both experienced and newbie surfers can benefit tremendously from sport-specific conditioning:
“Think ABC — always be cool,” says Willis. “Surfing is as much attitude and understanding of rhythm and flow as it is riding waves.”
- Concentrate on preparing mentally and physically — unlike other sports, this is one that demands peak form every time.
- Swim laps 4 or 5 times a week, increasing the intensity of your workout as you progress.
- Incorporate regular sessions of strength training — free weights are an excellent choice— and aerobic work to develop cardiovascular endurance.
- Learn free diving techniques.
- Practice yoga for flexibility, discipline and concentration.
- Develop core strength through Pilates.
- Do balance exercises using the exercise ball and balance boards.
- For more information on big wave surfing, check out the Willis Brother’s website: www.wbsurfing.com
“Surfing is very easy to do and very difficult to master. Everyone who has the courage to go surfing and stick with it is in for a great time,” says Willis. “One day I plan on catching the perfect wave and just keep on riding.”
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